North Fork Sauk River

The walk along the North Fork Sauk River is a gentle but persistant grade through towering groves of cedar and fir and patches of wildflowers, playing "tag" with the river itself.
Many a good piece of country has been saved by bad roads, and a fairly uncrowded trail is the reward for the dusty, pot hole strewn miles you have to drive along the mountain loop and Forest Service road 49. Other than a couple groups of overnighters who were leaving as we were starting out on the trail, we had this ancient forest glade to ourselves all day long.
The trail was mostly dry, with the exception of the first stream crossing at an avalanche chute that requires either waterproof boots or skillful rock hopping. The rest of the trail is in great shape, with repairs last year to flood damage from 2006, including a new, very sturdy bridge over Red Creek.
Red Creek is a treat on a warm day, as the cascading, ice cold waters make a sort of natural air conditioning, a great cool down spot, although anyone taking advantage of the campsites here might find it annoying after an hour or so on all but the warmest of days. Much better camping can be had 1 1/2 miles later at Mackinaw Shelter. The shelter itself isn't somewhere I'd choose to spend the night,since this 1957 creation has seen many hard winters, leans a bit, and looks like it wouldn't keep out more than a light drizzle, but there's a nice fire ring, some fine tent sites and a backwoods toilet with a lovely view of the river. There's a good, small beach with a log that lets you cross to the other shore for exploration. Sitting there having lunch, I really wished I'd had a tent a sleeping bag with me.
There are definately bear active along the trail. We saw two fresh piles of bear scat along the way, the first about one mile from the trailhead, the other about a mile from Macinaw Shelter. Are there two bears in this valley, or just one who uses the trail as his highway? In either case, be sure to take the usual precautions, and maybe you'll be lucky enough to see one...from a distance.
An unexpected plus: there were several species of colorful butterflys in the open, moist sections of the trail.

Wallace Falls Lake Loop

Wallace Falls can be very crowded (deservedly so, as it's one of the loveliest and most accessible hikes here in Snohomish County), which is why I chose it on this warm, sunny Sunday. My wife worries when I hike alone, so I assured her that being alone wouldn't be an issue here.
Not wanting too much company, I arrived fairly early at 8:30. There were already a dozen other cars in the lot (when I finished my hike at 4:30, the lot was full and there were two dozen other cars parked a quarter mile from the park entrance, so an early start is advised on nice weekends). I set out to do the big loop of the park, heading up the trail to the falls while the crowds were still (relatively) sparse.
The trail was remarkably mud free, considering the torrential, anyone-seen-a-pair-of-zebras rain we had Saturday, and it was an easy but moderately steep climb up to the top. From the upper falls, a trail leads to the top of the ridge, hard to discern, but fortunately there are blue markers attached to trees that show you the way. A short uphill grunt and you come out on the DNR road (closed to all but the occasional logging truck) that leads to Wallace Lake.
There's a nice short side trip here. Instead of heading left towards the lake, go right about 100 yards and you'll find access to the banks of the Wallace River just before the falls, a pleasant place for a snack and a rest. From here the walking is easy, following the wide, level road for about 3 1/2 miles to the lake. The signage here is great, with every turn marked and maps posted with "You Are Here" markers.
The first thing you'll notice as you head along the road is that it's very quiet. As the sound of the river recedes, it is replaced by the chirping of birds and the occasional whine of an airplne engine in the distance. This is second growth forest, but ferns and wildflowers are returning, so the walk has a very park like quality to it, and after leaving the falls you've left most of the crowds behind as well.
Wallace Lake is usually ignored by visitors to the park, and today was no exception. A party of four was picnicing by the outlet stream, two people were fishing (lake season opened Saturday) and a couple was enjoying the view from the beach at the lakes west end, but that was it.
Once I set off for Jay Lake, I had the trail to myself. A short, easy mile later you come to the lake and a few campsites, available by permit only (contact the ranger for info). There were four tent pads, a picnic table and a fire pit surrounded by log chairs forming a sort of a "Wallace-henge". The fishing is probably good here too. When I stepped on a partially submergered log on the lakes shoreline, a group of about 50 trout fingerlings scattered away.
From here the "trail" to Shaw Lake is a bit challenging. You won't see a path on the ground, but some brush has been cut back and there is orange and pink flagging tape tied to branches every 50' or so.
As I was fighting my way through the brush, I heard the sound of something low to the ground and definately heavy crashing through the undergrowth. I didn't see what I'd scared off, but a few yards later I came upon a big, steaming pile of cougar poo. Anybody camping at Jay Lake would be well advised to keep the kids and dogs on a short leash.
When I arrived at a crossing of Shaw lake's outlet stream, the orange blazes showed the trail proceeding up a steep hillside full of unstable looking debris. I was within 1/2 mile of the lake, but at this point I reconsidered. I told my wife I was only going as far as Jay Lake, I was alone, the trail was dodgy and that cougar was somewhere nearby, so I let caution trump adventure. I turned around.
The trip back was a delight. Other than the two fishermen still at Wallace Lake, I didn't see another soul until I reached the Railroad Grade trail. I followed the Greg Ball trail, built by WTA youth volunteers (thanks everybody!) along the North Fork Wallace River. The forest is rather uninteresting at first, second growth with lots of dead sticks and little else, but as you descend there is more and more understory vegetation and wildlife (I was scolded by a chattering marmot for invading his privacy).
I followed the Railroad Grade trail back to the very crowded parking lot, a trail which is basically just another logging road. A shorter and more scenic route back is via the Woody trail.
The falls are pretty and well worth seeing, but the real gem here is the quiet and peaceful hike to the lakes. This is also a wonderful snowshoe hike up the DNR road to Wallace Lake, with an easily accessible trailhead.

Spencer Island

Although I've never listed an urban hike on this site, I'm making an exception for the Spencer Island trail because of its amazing diversity of wildlife so close to a big city.
The trailhead for Spencer Island is situated in the Snohomish River estuary between Everett and Marysville, less than five miles from the center of either town. This was formerly farmland and cattle grazing, but the dikes were breached in the 1990's, exposing the site once again to tidal influence and creating over 400 acres of marshland.
Follow the signs for Langus Park, but instead of parking at the end of the paved road, follow the gravel road another 1/4/ mile and park in the small lot next to the sewage treatment plant. From here it's another 1/4 mile walk to the bridge across Union Slough that is the park entrance, but keep your eyes open on the way and you'll probably see ducks, coots and herons enjoying the small ponds along the road.
From here there is a 3 1/2 mile loop, crossing the center of the marsh and following the outline of the southern half (the northern half is used for hunting in season, and the breached dike no longer allows you to get all the way around, but short spurs can be explored on the east and west sides), with Steamboat Slough to the east and Union Slough to the west. Note the many boats parked along Steamboat Slough, an array of vessels from a century old wrecked barge to a modern working tugboat to craft of varying sizes and purposes, from small pleasure boats to improvised housebaots.
The marsh is home to resident and migratory waterfowl, and raptors abound, because of the plentiful food sources and the numerous perches that were created when the salty tidal waters that were reintroduced killed a number of trees along the marshes edge. I seldom visit here without seeing eagles, osprey and hawks. There are also river otter, beaver, racoons, coyotes and deer. The marsh is rearing ground to juvenille salmon and the sloughs contain sturgeon.
The best time to see some of the more shy residents, like otters and deer, is at first light, but birds are there throughout the day. Just remember to stay on the trail, especially during the spring nesting season, and leave rover at home since dogs are not allowed here. The best time to have solitude is also early in the morning, especially weekdays, when we usually have the park to ourselves.
If you want to extend your hike, nearby Langus Park has a 3 mile paved trail along the Snohomish River and Union Slough, ending at the entrance to Spenser Island for a 7 mile loop hike of both parks if you begin at the Langus parking lot and return via the gravel road.

Big Four Ice Caves

After being unable to reach the trailhead for Ashland Lakes due to snow on the road, and lacking time for a longer hike, we decided to take the short hike to Big Four Ice Caves as a consolation.
On the way to the parking area, we came across a black bear (although his fur was more reddish brown) heading down to the Stillaguamish River, probably looking to do some fishing. This was about halfway between marten Creek and Deer creek, and judging by his appearence the fishing must be good, because he looked plump and healthy, none of that "skinny, just woke up from a long winters nap, having a bad den hair day" look about him. Seems Mr. Ursis is up and about early this year.
There was a couple inches of slushy snow in the Big Four parking lot, and the walk to the ice caves was a bit like walking in sand, feet slipping back a little with each step until I stopped and put on some YakTrax.
As soon as you cross the wetlands you'll first smell and then see lots of skunk cabbage blooms, like the bear a sure sign of spring, even if the trail looks more winterish than it has since last year. The snow increases a bit as you gain 200' in elevation, with maybe 5 inches on the ground at trails end.
The cave itself is fairly large and well formed now, but please stay out. You can see some large blocks of ice that have recently fallen from the roof, thankfully while no one was under them. There were quite a few small avalanches while we were there, perhaps one every 2 to 3 minutes, beautiful little white "waterfalls" of snow, noisy but (usually) harmless. "Don't like the weather? Just wait 15 minutes...". We had sunshine, rain and a few feeble snowflakes, occasionally all at the same time. Tomorrow promises to be more eventful, lots of wind and snow, but alas I have to help a friend move Friday. Too bad. I love stormy weather!
Speaking of storms, check out the forest edge by the caves, where trees in an an area of almost 100 square yards have been sheared off 10 to 15 feet above ground and lay like a giant set of pick up sticks, victims not of an avalanche but of a devastating microburst of wind.

Mount Pilchuck Winter Ascent

A perfect day for an ascent of Nanga Pilchuck. The snow isn't deep at all, the avalanche danger is low, the trail is easy to follow as long as you stay on the most heavily travelled tread. Less used side trails abound in many directions, leading who knows where.
We climbed up via the north slope trail, fairly easy going if you have treking poles (which I had) and yak traks or microspikes (which I didn't). There were a few slippery spots, but nothing too dangerous, and we made the last pitch up a fairly steep chute with no problem. From there it's an easier scramble through snow and boulders to the lookout.
The view was, well, Pilchuck. Sticking out 30 miles from the main massif of the Cascades, a 360 degree panorama of Western Washington unfolds before you. You can see three National Parks, from North Cascades to Olympic to Mount Rainier, and in between literally hundreds of peaks in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. In the west is a shining path of water...the Salish Sea (or Whulj or Puget Sound), the San Juan Islands, the city of Everett (where we live). Every resident of the Pugetopolis metroplex should hike here at least once, if only for the perspective.
We decided to follow the south slope route on our descent, following along the ridge to round the shoulder of Little Pilchuck until we rejoined the main trail on Mount Pilchuck's north side, because it wasn't as steep and was less icy thanks to a day in the sun.
I worry about some of the people I saw on the hike, folks with tennis shoes, cotton pants and (maybe) a kmart booksack on their backs with (maybe) 1 to 3 of the ten essentials. One father with three teen daughters, thus equipped, was heading up as we were coming down at 2:30 in the afternoon. What would happen if someone were to twist an ankle, or if they underestimated their time and were still slipping and sliding down the now icy trail at nightfall? Dad said something about not wanting to "waste all the effort we've already invested" and continued up. I hope I don't read about them in the paper tomorrow, but they weren't alone, because an alarming number of people were headed up a mountain in winter dressed for a day at Safeco Field. I'm sure most of them will be fine, but hey, sometimes shit happens, and I often feel compelled to attempt to gently dicourage them from heading into harms way. It is a compulsion I usually resist out of politeness, except in egregious cases where little kids are in tow.
For those with adequate clothing and gear, however, the weather right now is perfect for Pilchuck.

Heather Lake & Boardman Lake

A beautiful morning for an April hike...in January. The trail through the forest was 45 degrees, high clouds but no rain so quite comfortable in just a fleece jacket, which I had to open to vent the heat of the 1100' climb. The trail was snow free all the way to the lake.
The trail around the lake was mostly snow free, but watch out for the few patches on the west and south sides of the lake. The snow has thawed and frozen again, and it has been polished to glass smoothness by the boots of many hikers. Take care and stay off it when you can.
The wind kicked up on the south and west sides as well, making it feel more like it was 25 degrees, so we stopped to put on another layer. An interesting sight on the lakes south shore was a stand of trees that had recently been snapped in two about 10 to 15 feet up their trunks. There were no boudlers, and there sure hasn't been enough snow for an avalanche to have done that this winter, so I think that it may have been a microburst, a very localized column of sinking air, producing damaging divergent and straight-line winds at the surface that can snap a two foot diameter tree like a twig. Standing in the brisk wind at the bottom of this bowl, looking up at the steep cliffs, I was thankful that today's wind was only a stiff breeze.
It was still early when we got back to the car, so we decided to take in the short trip to nearby Boardman Lake. After stopping in 1/10th of a mile to view scenic little Evan Lake, we climber 300' in 3/4ths of a mile in a light snow. I think this trail and the destination were both prettier than Heather Lake. I almost passed it up because it was too easy. Most of the time it doesn't seem like a "real" hike to me until I've invested some sweat and toil to earn it, but I was glad I talked myself into it.
It began snowing pretty heavily at the lake, big feather sized flakes, so we headed back down. By the time we hit Granite Falls we were driving in steady rain, but I'm happy to say that I didn't feel my first raindrop until I was in my own driveway. I'll chalk today up as a victory!

Barclay Lake & Heybrook Lookout

Barclay Lake and Heybrook Lookout are only a few miles apart, and they share more than geographic proximimty. They are also both great hikes to take novices and your non-hiking friends on. They are short, easy trails with no signifigant obsticles but with wonderful scenic payoffs.
Barclay lake is an almost level (50' elevation gain), well maintaned trail that is as water & mud free as any trail in Western Washington can be in November. Since the old growth forest I remember walking through as a child was logged most of the way to the lake, you can use the walk to explain the difference between an intensively managed (i.e. clearcut) tree farm and a natural forest, which you encounter as you near and walk along the lake. Trees were replanted along the trail over 40 years ago, but the understory is still a biological desert, except for the wood fiber. Plenty of sticks, cones and needles carpet the "forest" floor, but little else. The almost total lack of understory diversity gives meaning to the otherwise oxymoronic phrase "can't see the forest for the trees".
As you are just about in sight of the lake you come across an area opened by a small rockslide and get your first real glimpse of the towering vertical wall of Mount Baring to your right. Look to your left for a view of Gunn Peak, source of the rocky rubble on which your stand. For the best view of the lake, keep following the trail to the lakes infall creek, then duck under some thorny shrubs to a small opening at the creeks mouth. Enjoy the trout jumping, rippling the glassy surface.
After this short hike, those who still have some ambition and energy should head to the trailhead for Heybrook Lookout, located about 3 1/2 miles west on Highway 2, just across from the "Leaving Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest" sign. It's only 1 1/3 miles to the top, but the elevation gain is 850', which can be challenging for those not used to walking more than the width of a Mall parking lot. Most of that gain comes in the first half of the ascent, so gently prod your novices with the occasional "one step at a time" or "we're getting close now", and as the grade becomes gentler they'll feel as if they've hit their stride. Before you know it you come to an opening with Mount Index and Bridal Veil falls to your right and the lookout rising from the peak to your left, just a few feet away.
There are seven flights of starirs (68') to the top of the observation platform, from which the views unfold. South is Index, east is the Skykomish River valley winding its way between the mountains towards Stevens Pass, and to the left of that are Mount Baring and Gunn Peak, flanking the valley you just hiked to get to Barclay Lake. Kids faces will light up when they recognize it, a satisfied "I did that!" look on their faces.