Spencer Island

Although I've never listed an urban hike on this site, I'm making an exception for the Spencer Island trail because of its amazing diversity of wildlife so close to a big city.
The trailhead for Spencer Island is situated in the Snohomish River estuary between Everett and Marysville, less than five miles from the center of either town. This was formerly farmland and cattle grazing, but the dikes were breached in the 1990's, exposing the site once again to tidal influence and creating over 400 acres of marshland.
Follow the signs for Langus Park, but instead of parking at the end of the paved road, follow the gravel road another 1/4/ mile and park in the small lot next to the sewage treatment plant. From here it's another 1/4 mile walk to the bridge across Union Slough that is the park entrance, but keep your eyes open on the way and you'll probably see ducks, coots and herons enjoying the small ponds along the road.
From here there is a 3 1/2 mile loop, crossing the center of the marsh and following the outline of the southern half (the northern half is used for hunting in season, and the breached dike no longer allows you to get all the way around, but short spurs can be explored on the east and west sides), with Steamboat Slough to the east and Union Slough to the west. Note the many boats parked along Steamboat Slough, an array of vessels from a century old wrecked barge to a modern working tugboat to craft of varying sizes and purposes, from small pleasure boats to improvised housebaots.
The marsh is home to resident and migratory waterfowl, and raptors abound, because of the plentiful food sources and the numerous perches that were created when the salty tidal waters that were reintroduced killed a number of trees along the marshes edge. I seldom visit here without seeing eagles, osprey and hawks. There are also river otter, beaver, racoons, coyotes and deer. The marsh is rearing ground to juvenille salmon and the sloughs contain sturgeon.
The best time to see some of the more shy residents, like otters and deer, is at first light, but birds are there throughout the day. Just remember to stay on the trail, especially during the spring nesting season, and leave rover at home since dogs are not allowed here. The best time to have solitude is also early in the morning, especially weekdays, when we usually have the park to ourselves.
If you want to extend your hike, nearby Langus Park has a 3 mile paved trail along the Snohomish River and Union Slough, ending at the entrance to Spenser Island for a 7 mile loop hike of both parks if you begin at the Langus parking lot and return via the gravel road.

Big Four Ice Caves

After being unable to reach the trailhead for Ashland Lakes due to snow on the road, and lacking time for a longer hike, we decided to take the short hike to Big Four Ice Caves as a consolation.
On the way to the parking area, we came across a black bear (although his fur was more reddish brown) heading down to the Stillaguamish River, probably looking to do some fishing. This was about halfway between marten Creek and Deer creek, and judging by his appearence the fishing must be good, because he looked plump and healthy, none of that "skinny, just woke up from a long winters nap, having a bad den hair day" look about him. Seems Mr. Ursis is up and about early this year.
There was a couple inches of slushy snow in the Big Four parking lot, and the walk to the ice caves was a bit like walking in sand, feet slipping back a little with each step until I stopped and put on some YakTrax.
As soon as you cross the wetlands you'll first smell and then see lots of skunk cabbage blooms, like the bear a sure sign of spring, even if the trail looks more winterish than it has since last year. The snow increases a bit as you gain 200' in elevation, with maybe 5 inches on the ground at trails end.
The cave itself is fairly large and well formed now, but please stay out. You can see some large blocks of ice that have recently fallen from the roof, thankfully while no one was under them. There were quite a few small avalanches while we were there, perhaps one every 2 to 3 minutes, beautiful little white "waterfalls" of snow, noisy but (usually) harmless. "Don't like the weather? Just wait 15 minutes...". We had sunshine, rain and a few feeble snowflakes, occasionally all at the same time. Tomorrow promises to be more eventful, lots of wind and snow, but alas I have to help a friend move Friday. Too bad. I love stormy weather!
Speaking of storms, check out the forest edge by the caves, where trees in an an area of almost 100 square yards have been sheared off 10 to 15 feet above ground and lay like a giant set of pick up sticks, victims not of an avalanche but of a devastating microburst of wind.

Mount Pilchuck Winter Ascent

A perfect day for an ascent of Nanga Pilchuck. The snow isn't deep at all, the avalanche danger is low, the trail is easy to follow as long as you stay on the most heavily travelled tread. Less used side trails abound in many directions, leading who knows where.
We climbed up via the north slope trail, fairly easy going if you have treking poles (which I had) and yak traks or microspikes (which I didn't). There were a few slippery spots, but nothing too dangerous, and we made the last pitch up a fairly steep chute with no problem. From there it's an easier scramble through snow and boulders to the lookout.
The view was, well, Pilchuck. Sticking out 30 miles from the main massif of the Cascades, a 360 degree panorama of Western Washington unfolds before you. You can see three National Parks, from North Cascades to Olympic to Mount Rainier, and in between literally hundreds of peaks in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. In the west is a shining path of water...the Salish Sea (or Whulj or Puget Sound), the San Juan Islands, the city of Everett (where we live). Every resident of the Pugetopolis metroplex should hike here at least once, if only for the perspective.
We decided to follow the south slope route on our descent, following along the ridge to round the shoulder of Little Pilchuck until we rejoined the main trail on Mount Pilchuck's north side, because it wasn't as steep and was less icy thanks to a day in the sun.
I worry about some of the people I saw on the hike, folks with tennis shoes, cotton pants and (maybe) a kmart booksack on their backs with (maybe) 1 to 3 of the ten essentials. One father with three teen daughters, thus equipped, was heading up as we were coming down at 2:30 in the afternoon. What would happen if someone were to twist an ankle, or if they underestimated their time and were still slipping and sliding down the now icy trail at nightfall? Dad said something about not wanting to "waste all the effort we've already invested" and continued up. I hope I don't read about them in the paper tomorrow, but they weren't alone, because an alarming number of people were headed up a mountain in winter dressed for a day at Safeco Field. I'm sure most of them will be fine, but hey, sometimes shit happens, and I often feel compelled to attempt to gently dicourage them from heading into harms way. It is a compulsion I usually resist out of politeness, except in egregious cases where little kids are in tow.
For those with adequate clothing and gear, however, the weather right now is perfect for Pilchuck.

Heather Lake & Boardman Lake

A beautiful morning for an April hike...in January. The trail through the forest was 45 degrees, high clouds but no rain so quite comfortable in just a fleece jacket, which I had to open to vent the heat of the 1100' climb. The trail was snow free all the way to the lake.
The trail around the lake was mostly snow free, but watch out for the few patches on the west and south sides of the lake. The snow has thawed and frozen again, and it has been polished to glass smoothness by the boots of many hikers. Take care and stay off it when you can.
The wind kicked up on the south and west sides as well, making it feel more like it was 25 degrees, so we stopped to put on another layer. An interesting sight on the lakes south shore was a stand of trees that had recently been snapped in two about 10 to 15 feet up their trunks. There were no boudlers, and there sure hasn't been enough snow for an avalanche to have done that this winter, so I think that it may have been a microburst, a very localized column of sinking air, producing damaging divergent and straight-line winds at the surface that can snap a two foot diameter tree like a twig. Standing in the brisk wind at the bottom of this bowl, looking up at the steep cliffs, I was thankful that today's wind was only a stiff breeze.
It was still early when we got back to the car, so we decided to take in the short trip to nearby Boardman Lake. After stopping in 1/10th of a mile to view scenic little Evan Lake, we climber 300' in 3/4ths of a mile in a light snow. I think this trail and the destination were both prettier than Heather Lake. I almost passed it up because it was too easy. Most of the time it doesn't seem like a "real" hike to me until I've invested some sweat and toil to earn it, but I was glad I talked myself into it.
It began snowing pretty heavily at the lake, big feather sized flakes, so we headed back down. By the time we hit Granite Falls we were driving in steady rain, but I'm happy to say that I didn't feel my first raindrop until I was in my own driveway. I'll chalk today up as a victory!

Barclay Lake & Heybrook Lookout

Barclay Lake and Heybrook Lookout are only a few miles apart, and they share more than geographic proximimty. They are also both great hikes to take novices and your non-hiking friends on. They are short, easy trails with no signifigant obsticles but with wonderful scenic payoffs.
Barclay lake is an almost level (50' elevation gain), well maintaned trail that is as water & mud free as any trail in Western Washington can be in November. Since the old growth forest I remember walking through as a child was logged most of the way to the lake, you can use the walk to explain the difference between an intensively managed (i.e. clearcut) tree farm and a natural forest, which you encounter as you near and walk along the lake. Trees were replanted along the trail over 40 years ago, but the understory is still a biological desert, except for the wood fiber. Plenty of sticks, cones and needles carpet the "forest" floor, but little else. The almost total lack of understory diversity gives meaning to the otherwise oxymoronic phrase "can't see the forest for the trees".
As you are just about in sight of the lake you come across an area opened by a small rockslide and get your first real glimpse of the towering vertical wall of Mount Baring to your right. Look to your left for a view of Gunn Peak, source of the rocky rubble on which your stand. For the best view of the lake, keep following the trail to the lakes infall creek, then duck under some thorny shrubs to a small opening at the creeks mouth. Enjoy the trout jumping, rippling the glassy surface.
After this short hike, those who still have some ambition and energy should head to the trailhead for Heybrook Lookout, located about 3 1/2 miles west on Highway 2, just across from the "Leaving Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest" sign. It's only 1 1/3 miles to the top, but the elevation gain is 850', which can be challenging for those not used to walking more than the width of a Mall parking lot. Most of that gain comes in the first half of the ascent, so gently prod your novices with the occasional "one step at a time" or "we're getting close now", and as the grade becomes gentler they'll feel as if they've hit their stride. Before you know it you come to an opening with Mount Index and Bridal Veil falls to your right and the lookout rising from the peak to your left, just a few feet away.
There are seven flights of starirs (68') to the top of the observation platform, from which the views unfold. South is Index, east is the Skykomish River valley winding its way between the mountains towards Stevens Pass, and to the left of that are Mount Baring and Gunn Peak, flanking the valley you just hiked to get to Barclay Lake. Kids faces will light up when they recognize it, a satisfied "I did that!" look on their faces.

Perry Creek & Mount Forgotten

Perry Creek is a beautiful fall hike with a taste of winter thrown in. The short but steep trail (8 miles round trip, 3200' elevation gain) begins under the sheer cliffs of Mount Dickerman's west face, a nearly 2 mile long avalanche chute between the trailhead and the falls. Few evergreens grow here, swept away by annual avalanches and occasional rock slides, but the alders and vine maples abound, dappling the trail with yellow, orange, red and gold, and expansive openings reveal views of Big Four, Hall Peak and a half dozen waterfalls across the valley.
A good trail procedes over stable rock on a gentle grade at first, gradually steepening in the second mile until you reach old growth forest at Perry Creek falls. Just past the falls is a creek crossing, partly on rocks, partly on a large downed cedar log, easy today but it could be tough if the creek was any fuller. Stepping on the partly submerged rocks, the water came within an inch of my boot tops. If your unsure, it might be worth putting on gaiters to keep the very chilly water out.
From here, the trail begins to climb steeply up the side of Mount Forgotten. Although easy to follow, it is a root and rock strewn path that keeps your eyes focused on the trail, just as well since the views have vanished, but it's worth stopping now and then to examine the large trees above and the interesting fungi below. Try not to get discouraged at the steep slope that seems to go endlessly up.
After gaining 2000' in the next 2 miles the ridge is finally attained. On this late October day we reached snowline at about 4500' elev., and found 2 inches of snow dusting the top. Great views here of Dickerman, Forgotten, Big Four, Hall & Stillaguamish Peak's. Another 300' gain in less than a quarter mile brings you to Mount Forgotten's meadows, but any wildflowers were long since bloomed and burried under snow.
If the creek crossing was a bit dodgy on the way up, be sure to keep an eye on the weather as this small, narrow creek will fill up fast in a heavy rain.

Deer Creek Pass & Kelcema Lake

About 50' from the very popular Kelcema Lake trail is the trailhead for Deer Creek Pass, a .6 mile, 300' elevation gain stroll to a ridge with views of Three Fingers, Liberty and Big Bear mountains. It's easy to overlook. We went past it at first, thinking the trail was a small eroded watercourse. Turns out it's both.
The small bridges and puncheons look like they were installed around 1960, and I'd guess that's the last time anybody other than the occasional trail user thought to maintain it, so it's safer to avoid the crumbling bridges and slick, slimey puncheons than to use them. Be sure your boots are laced up tight too, because there are some deep, boot sucking mudholes that are hard to avoid on the first half of the trail.
(Note to any interested parties: it wouldn't take much to rehabilitate this trail, which would help relieve some of the pressure from the somewhat overused Kelcema trail. This would make a great Eagle Scout project, or a nice opportunity for WTA volunteers who aren't athletic enough to tackle a backcountry work party).
The second half of the trail is wider, less brushy and with only a few small blowdowns as it switchbacks quickly to the ridge. Just before reaching the top I saw flagging tape and a sign for the "Helena Mine Trail", an informal trail marked off by someone (the ranger said a Boeing engineer) with a sense of adventure & history, but I didn't have time to explore it as grandpa duty called this afternoon.
For the curious and intrepid, there is also the Saint Louis Mine along Deer Creek just 100 yards or so downhill from the parking area, and the Bonanza Queen Mine about 2 miles up Deer Creek Road from the Mountain Loop Highway. Look for a wide spot on the left with a "what the duece?" brass plaque on a rock among the bushes and follow a faint trail a few hundred feet to the mine.