Iron Goat Trail

Although I've hiked sections of the Iron Goat Trail before, today was the first time I hiked the whole trail in one day. What a great workout!
This is an interesting haunted hike, a spooky halloween treat, with gorgeous bits scattered in between.


I parked at the Scenic trailhead, taking the lower trail to Martin Creek, then the upper trail to Wellington, returning to Scenic by the Windy Pass cutoff. The nice thing about the Iron Goat is that since it follows the old railroad route, and the steam trains could only handle a 4% grade, the trail from Marten Creek to Wellington is as easy and level a path as you can hope to find in the vertical landscape of the Cascades.

The trail is dry right now, even as you pass by pretty little creeks and waterfalls (as of friday, maybe not) and free of blowdowns. The section from just past Windy Pass overlook to Wellington is smooth enough to be bike and wheelchair friendly, a great place to take the very young, very old and very lazy to stretch their legs and get some fresh air.

I stopped at the viewing stand at the site of the Wellington avalanche disaster of 1910 (96 dead, the nations worst avalanche ever) and, in the spirit of Halloween tried to conjure up some ghosts, but the only luck I had was hearing the ghostly sound of trains in the background, courtesy of the modern BNSF and Amtrak routes that still run through the valley below. I saw an informal path leading from the viewing stand to the disaster site, but decided it would be morbid and disrespectful to intrude on whatever twisted remains lay beneath the screen of trees.

Because of the gentle grade and great condition of the trail, the whole 12 miles only took 5 1/2 hours, including two 15 minute breaks.

If you want a dose of history to enhance your Iron Goat experience, check out the book "White Cascade" by Gary Krist.

Pinnacle Lake

Good news! The road to the Pinnacle Lake/Bear lake trailhead is repaired and open. From the turnoff where FS Road 4020 splits from the Boardman/Ashland Lakes road, it's in great shape if a bit narrow, with a brand new bridge.


The trail itself is another matter. Pinnacle has always been a challenging route of rocks and roots, but it has been little used and neglected as of late, and it shows. The small bridge just after the Pinnacle trail splits off from Bear Lake is missing planks, slick & slimey and leaning at a precarious angle. I crossed OK on the way up, but slipped and bent the tip of one of my trekking poles on the way down. Use caution, or better yet find another way across the creek.



The trail soon turns into a rut which is probably a stream during wet weather. It is very narrow and deep in many places, and doesn't improve much until after the first mile, when the grade lessens as you follow the spine of a forested ridge. Look for nice "teaser" views of Three Fingers, Dickerman, Glacier Peak and Mount Baker.

Close to the top there is a somber note, a small sign memorializing the two hikers, Susanna Stodden and Mary Cooper, who were killed here in a senseless and as yet unsolved crime. Pay your respects, but don't let the bastard(s) take even more by making you fearful to visit. It was a tragic but isolated and random incident, and you are safer here than you were in your own neighborhood or on the drive up I-5.

When the ridge finally levels out, you'll come to some seemingly permanent mudholes, but please just slop on through. The wallows seem to get bigger each year as people try to skirt the edge and end up widening them. If your boots didn't get sucked off, you'll round a corner to a lovely tarn surrounded by huckleberries, now in nice fall colors. Many visitors mistakenly believe this is the lake, but it's still 1/10th of a mile away. Just follow the well worn track around and beyond the pond, and you'll be rewarded with a good sized trout filled lake with some level granite slabs to sit on while you watch the fish jump and admire a big hunk of Mount Pilchuck rising up from the other end of Pinnacle Lake.

If you didn't stop by Bear Lake on the way up, be sure to take the detour when you get down. It's a nice tranquil spot to relax and maybe fish before climbing into your car for the bumpy ride back to the Mountain Loop road.

Mount Pilchuck Early Autumn

 A Trip Report in 3 Haiku's...

Foggy Everett

                                                 left behind, Pilchuck beckons

              a crowded trailhead

Cool trees warm boulders

                   feeling summer and autumn

                   warm colors abound

A rocky descent

round, angular, boot snaring

gotta watch those feet

Walt Bailey Trail

WTA chose this "Hike of the Week" at the perfect time. Fall colors, fields of berries and fair weather made this a wonderful way to celebrate the beginning of autumn.

The Walt Bailey trail doesn't get much use compared to the other trails in the Stillaguamish valley. It isn't well known, it's in a sort of mini rain forest zone (Bald Mountain Natural Resource Conservation Area gets between 100" and 160" of rain annually)and the trail itself alternates between smooth park like rambles to tangled roots to boulder avalanche fields to boot sucking mud. It's not as bad as it sounds, especially considering the pay off, but it does tend to weed out less hardy souls and the t-shirt & tennis shoe crowd.

This usually means a good deal of solitude, particularly mid week or rainy weekends. That wasn't the case today, with 7 vehicles at the trailhead, possibly inspired as I was by WTA's recommendation, but folks were spread out pretty well, and I was happy to see more people enjoying this underused gem.

The ridge below the summit of Bald Mountain is ablaze in the yellow, orange and red hues of fall. The berries, though not as plentiful as in most years, still abound near Cutthroat Lakes, and my heavens they're tasty! By the time I finished snacking my way across the ridge, my fingers were so purple it looked like I'd just voted in an Iraqi election.

There are also some nice views to be had here, west to Mount Pilchuck and down the Stillaguamish valley, north to Three Fingers, Fletcher & Anaconda Peaks, east to Marble Peak (I didn't actually shoot an azimuth, so I may have the name of one of those peaks wrong, but the views are lovely whichever peaks they are).

Part of me (the selfish part) wants to say "Ssssh!" when someone mentions this trail, but the better angels of my nature want more boots here, because the more people who love the Walt Bailey trail, the more advocates there will be for its protection and maintenance. So do yourself a favor and head on up to this spectacular panorama, and be sure to bring a friend.

Lake 22

This is a great beginner hike for kids, so I took two kids, age 7 and 8, for a hike up to the lake. The trail is in excellent condition, with no stream crossings or blowdowns. The bugs, which can sometimes be annoying, were few and far between.

On the day we hiked, a thin layer of clouds kept the temperature down to the low 70's, perfect hiking weather. On warmer days you'll heat up for about 3/4 of a mile when you traverse the boulder fields. There are great views from here, and the grandkids loved it when they could see all the way down to the bottom of the Stillaguamish valley where we started from.

You'll always have some company on this very popular hike, so your best bet to beat the crowds is to go early on a week day.

Lake Dorothy is a very popular hike for good reasons; a smooth access road, a short hike on a well maintained trail, a two mile long lake surrounded by snow capped peaks. But popularity means crowds, so to experience this bit of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in something closer to a wilderness environment, try visiting mid-week.


We went on this lovely 75 degree day, happy to be hiking most of the way in the cool of the forest. We passed only four other parties while we were there, so we had a sense of solitude.

There is a bridge out at the far end of the lake on the trail to Bear Lake, and we didn't meet anyone coming down to verify whether it's crossable, so you might want to give the Skykomish Ranger Station a call if the upper lakes are your destination.

North Fork Sauk River

The walk along the North Fork Sauk River is a gentle but persistant grade through towering groves of cedar and fir and patches of wildflowers, playing "tag" with the river itself.
Many a good piece of country has been saved by bad roads, and a fairly uncrowded trail is the reward for the dusty, pot hole strewn miles you have to drive along the mountain loop and Forest Service road 49. Other than a couple groups of overnighters who were leaving as we were starting out on the trail, we had this ancient forest glade to ourselves all day long.
The trail was mostly dry, with the exception of the first stream crossing at an avalanche chute that requires either waterproof boots or skillful rock hopping. The rest of the trail is in great shape, with repairs last year to flood damage from 2006, including a new, very sturdy bridge over Red Creek.
Red Creek is a treat on a warm day, as the cascading, ice cold waters make a sort of natural air conditioning, a great cool down spot, although anyone taking advantage of the campsites here might find it annoying after an hour or so on all but the warmest of days. Much better camping can be had 1 1/2 miles later at Mackinaw Shelter. The shelter itself isn't somewhere I'd choose to spend the night,since this 1957 creation has seen many hard winters, leans a bit, and looks like it wouldn't keep out more than a light drizzle, but there's a nice fire ring, some fine tent sites and a backwoods toilet with a lovely view of the river. There's a good, small beach with a log that lets you cross to the other shore for exploration. Sitting there having lunch, I really wished I'd had a tent a sleeping bag with me.
There are definately bear active along the trail. We saw two fresh piles of bear scat along the way, the first about one mile from the trailhead, the other about a mile from Macinaw Shelter. Are there two bears in this valley, or just one who uses the trail as his highway? In either case, be sure to take the usual precautions, and maybe you'll be lucky enough to see one...from a distance.
An unexpected plus: there were several species of colorful butterflys in the open, moist sections of the trail.

Wallace Falls Lake Loop

Wallace Falls can be very crowded (deservedly so, as it's one of the loveliest and most accessible hikes here in Snohomish County), which is why I chose it on this warm, sunny Sunday. My wife worries when I hike alone, so I assured her that being alone wouldn't be an issue here.
Not wanting too much company, I arrived fairly early at 8:30. There were already a dozen other cars in the lot (when I finished my hike at 4:30, the lot was full and there were two dozen other cars parked a quarter mile from the park entrance, so an early start is advised on nice weekends). I set out to do the big loop of the park, heading up the trail to the falls while the crowds were still (relatively) sparse.
The trail was remarkably mud free, considering the torrential, anyone-seen-a-pair-of-zebras rain we had Saturday, and it was an easy but moderately steep climb up to the top. From the upper falls, a trail leads to the top of the ridge, hard to discern, but fortunately there are blue markers attached to trees that show you the way. A short uphill grunt and you come out on the DNR road (closed to all but the occasional logging truck) that leads to Wallace Lake.
There's a nice short side trip here. Instead of heading left towards the lake, go right about 100 yards and you'll find access to the banks of the Wallace River just before the falls, a pleasant place for a snack and a rest. From here the walking is easy, following the wide, level road for about 3 1/2 miles to the lake. The signage here is great, with every turn marked and maps posted with "You Are Here" markers.
The first thing you'll notice as you head along the road is that it's very quiet. As the sound of the river recedes, it is replaced by the chirping of birds and the occasional whine of an airplne engine in the distance. This is second growth forest, but ferns and wildflowers are returning, so the walk has a very park like quality to it, and after leaving the falls you've left most of the crowds behind as well.
Wallace Lake is usually ignored by visitors to the park, and today was no exception. A party of four was picnicing by the outlet stream, two people were fishing (lake season opened Saturday) and a couple was enjoying the view from the beach at the lakes west end, but that was it.
Once I set off for Jay Lake, I had the trail to myself. A short, easy mile later you come to the lake and a few campsites, available by permit only (contact the ranger for info). There were four tent pads, a picnic table and a fire pit surrounded by log chairs forming a sort of a "Wallace-henge". The fishing is probably good here too. When I stepped on a partially submergered log on the lakes shoreline, a group of about 50 trout fingerlings scattered away.
From here the "trail" to Shaw Lake is a bit challenging. You won't see a path on the ground, but some brush has been cut back and there is orange and pink flagging tape tied to branches every 50' or so.
As I was fighting my way through the brush, I heard the sound of something low to the ground and definately heavy crashing through the undergrowth. I didn't see what I'd scared off, but a few yards later I came upon a big, steaming pile of cougar poo. Anybody camping at Jay Lake would be well advised to keep the kids and dogs on a short leash.
When I arrived at a crossing of Shaw lake's outlet stream, the orange blazes showed the trail proceeding up a steep hillside full of unstable looking debris. I was within 1/2 mile of the lake, but at this point I reconsidered. I told my wife I was only going as far as Jay Lake, I was alone, the trail was dodgy and that cougar was somewhere nearby, so I let caution trump adventure. I turned around.
The trip back was a delight. Other than the two fishermen still at Wallace Lake, I didn't see another soul until I reached the Railroad Grade trail. I followed the Greg Ball trail, built by WTA youth volunteers (thanks everybody!) along the North Fork Wallace River. The forest is rather uninteresting at first, second growth with lots of dead sticks and little else, but as you descend there is more and more understory vegetation and wildlife (I was scolded by a chattering marmot for invading his privacy).
I followed the Railroad Grade trail back to the very crowded parking lot, a trail which is basically just another logging road. A shorter and more scenic route back is via the Woody trail.
The falls are pretty and well worth seeing, but the real gem here is the quiet and peaceful hike to the lakes. This is also a wonderful snowshoe hike up the DNR road to Wallace Lake, with an easily accessible trailhead.

Spencer Island

Although I've never listed an urban hike on this site, I'm making an exception for the Spencer Island trail because of its amazing diversity of wildlife so close to a big city.
The trailhead for Spencer Island is situated in the Snohomish River estuary between Everett and Marysville, less than five miles from the center of either town. This was formerly farmland and cattle grazing, but the dikes were breached in the 1990's, exposing the site once again to tidal influence and creating over 400 acres of marshland.
Follow the signs for Langus Park, but instead of parking at the end of the paved road, follow the gravel road another 1/4/ mile and park in the small lot next to the sewage treatment plant. From here it's another 1/4 mile walk to the bridge across Union Slough that is the park entrance, but keep your eyes open on the way and you'll probably see ducks, coots and herons enjoying the small ponds along the road.
From here there is a 3 1/2 mile loop, crossing the center of the marsh and following the outline of the southern half (the northern half is used for hunting in season, and the breached dike no longer allows you to get all the way around, but short spurs can be explored on the east and west sides), with Steamboat Slough to the east and Union Slough to the west. Note the many boats parked along Steamboat Slough, an array of vessels from a century old wrecked barge to a modern working tugboat to craft of varying sizes and purposes, from small pleasure boats to improvised housebaots.
The marsh is home to resident and migratory waterfowl, and raptors abound, because of the plentiful food sources and the numerous perches that were created when the salty tidal waters that were reintroduced killed a number of trees along the marshes edge. I seldom visit here without seeing eagles, osprey and hawks. There are also river otter, beaver, racoons, coyotes and deer. The marsh is rearing ground to juvenille salmon and the sloughs contain sturgeon.
The best time to see some of the more shy residents, like otters and deer, is at first light, but birds are there throughout the day. Just remember to stay on the trail, especially during the spring nesting season, and leave rover at home since dogs are not allowed here. The best time to have solitude is also early in the morning, especially weekdays, when we usually have the park to ourselves.
If you want to extend your hike, nearby Langus Park has a 3 mile paved trail along the Snohomish River and Union Slough, ending at the entrance to Spenser Island for a 7 mile loop hike of both parks if you begin at the Langus parking lot and return via the gravel road.

Big Four Ice Caves

After being unable to reach the trailhead for Ashland Lakes due to snow on the road, and lacking time for a longer hike, we decided to take the short hike to Big Four Ice Caves as a consolation.
On the way to the parking area, we came across a black bear (although his fur was more reddish brown) heading down to the Stillaguamish River, probably looking to do some fishing. This was about halfway between marten Creek and Deer creek, and judging by his appearence the fishing must be good, because he looked plump and healthy, none of that "skinny, just woke up from a long winters nap, having a bad den hair day" look about him. Seems Mr. Ursis is up and about early this year.
There was a couple inches of slushy snow in the Big Four parking lot, and the walk to the ice caves was a bit like walking in sand, feet slipping back a little with each step until I stopped and put on some YakTrax.
As soon as you cross the wetlands you'll first smell and then see lots of skunk cabbage blooms, like the bear a sure sign of spring, even if the trail looks more winterish than it has since last year. The snow increases a bit as you gain 200' in elevation, with maybe 5 inches on the ground at trails end.
The cave itself is fairly large and well formed now, but please stay out. You can see some large blocks of ice that have recently fallen from the roof, thankfully while no one was under them. There were quite a few small avalanches while we were there, perhaps one every 2 to 3 minutes, beautiful little white "waterfalls" of snow, noisy but (usually) harmless. "Don't like the weather? Just wait 15 minutes...". We had sunshine, rain and a few feeble snowflakes, occasionally all at the same time. Tomorrow promises to be more eventful, lots of wind and snow, but alas I have to help a friend move Friday. Too bad. I love stormy weather!
Speaking of storms, check out the forest edge by the caves, where trees in an an area of almost 100 square yards have been sheared off 10 to 15 feet above ground and lay like a giant set of pick up sticks, victims not of an avalanche but of a devastating microburst of wind.

Mount Pilchuck Winter Ascent

A perfect day for an ascent of Nanga Pilchuck. The snow isn't deep at all, the avalanche danger is low, the trail is easy to follow as long as you stay on the most heavily travelled tread. Less used side trails abound in many directions, leading who knows where.
We climbed up via the north slope trail, fairly easy going if you have treking poles (which I had) and yak traks or microspikes (which I didn't). There were a few slippery spots, but nothing too dangerous, and we made the last pitch up a fairly steep chute with no problem. From there it's an easier scramble through snow and boulders to the lookout.
The view was, well, Pilchuck. Sticking out 30 miles from the main massif of the Cascades, a 360 degree panorama of Western Washington unfolds before you. You can see three National Parks, from North Cascades to Olympic to Mount Rainier, and in between literally hundreds of peaks in the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. In the west is a shining path of water...the Salish Sea (or Whulj or Puget Sound), the San Juan Islands, the city of Everett (where we live). Every resident of the Pugetopolis metroplex should hike here at least once, if only for the perspective.
We decided to follow the south slope route on our descent, following along the ridge to round the shoulder of Little Pilchuck until we rejoined the main trail on Mount Pilchuck's north side, because it wasn't as steep and was less icy thanks to a day in the sun.
I worry about some of the people I saw on the hike, folks with tennis shoes, cotton pants and (maybe) a kmart booksack on their backs with (maybe) 1 to 3 of the ten essentials. One father with three teen daughters, thus equipped, was heading up as we were coming down at 2:30 in the afternoon. What would happen if someone were to twist an ankle, or if they underestimated their time and were still slipping and sliding down the now icy trail at nightfall? Dad said something about not wanting to "waste all the effort we've already invested" and continued up. I hope I don't read about them in the paper tomorrow, but they weren't alone, because an alarming number of people were headed up a mountain in winter dressed for a day at Safeco Field. I'm sure most of them will be fine, but hey, sometimes shit happens, and I often feel compelled to attempt to gently dicourage them from heading into harms way. It is a compulsion I usually resist out of politeness, except in egregious cases where little kids are in tow.
For those with adequate clothing and gear, however, the weather right now is perfect for Pilchuck.

Heather Lake & Boardman Lake

A beautiful morning for an April hike...in January. The trail through the forest was 45 degrees, high clouds but no rain so quite comfortable in just a fleece jacket, which I had to open to vent the heat of the 1100' climb. The trail was snow free all the way to the lake.
The trail around the lake was mostly snow free, but watch out for the few patches on the west and south sides of the lake. The snow has thawed and frozen again, and it has been polished to glass smoothness by the boots of many hikers. Take care and stay off it when you can.
The wind kicked up on the south and west sides as well, making it feel more like it was 25 degrees, so we stopped to put on another layer. An interesting sight on the lakes south shore was a stand of trees that had recently been snapped in two about 10 to 15 feet up their trunks. There were no boudlers, and there sure hasn't been enough snow for an avalanche to have done that this winter, so I think that it may have been a microburst, a very localized column of sinking air, producing damaging divergent and straight-line winds at the surface that can snap a two foot diameter tree like a twig. Standing in the brisk wind at the bottom of this bowl, looking up at the steep cliffs, I was thankful that today's wind was only a stiff breeze.
It was still early when we got back to the car, so we decided to take in the short trip to nearby Boardman Lake. After stopping in 1/10th of a mile to view scenic little Evan Lake, we climber 300' in 3/4ths of a mile in a light snow. I think this trail and the destination were both prettier than Heather Lake. I almost passed it up because it was too easy. Most of the time it doesn't seem like a "real" hike to me until I've invested some sweat and toil to earn it, but I was glad I talked myself into it.
It began snowing pretty heavily at the lake, big feather sized flakes, so we headed back down. By the time we hit Granite Falls we were driving in steady rain, but I'm happy to say that I didn't feel my first raindrop until I was in my own driveway. I'll chalk today up as a victory!